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BULLETIN NO. 3 

Published by authority of the Executive Committee 



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Spring Flowering Bulbs 



MADISON, WIS., OCTOBER, I904; 



49*The Bulletins and Annual Reports of this Society are sent 
free to members of the Society 



Modograph 



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Wisconsin State Horticultural Society 



OFFICERS. 



T. E. Loope, President Eureka 

Geo. J. Kellogg, Vice-President Lake Mills 

F. Cranefield, Secretary Madison 

L G. Kellogg, Treasurer Ripon 

W. A. Toole. Cor. Secretary Baraboo 

EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE. 

T. E. Loope, Chairman Ex-officio 

F Cranefield Ex-officio 

Geo. J. Kellogg Ex-officio 

L. G. Kellogg Ex-officio 

1st Dist., W. J. Moyle Union Grove 

2d Dist., S. H. Marshall Madison 

3d Dist., Wm. Toole Baraboo 

4th Dist., Arthur Wright Milwaukee 

5th Dist., F. W. Harland Waukesha 

6th Dist., Geo. C. Hill Rosendale 

7th Dist, J. J. Menn Norwalk 

8th Dist., W. P. Bussey Omro 

9th Dist., Irving Smith Green Bay 

10th Dist., A. L. Kreutzer Wausau 

11th Dist., C. L.Richardson Chippewa Falls 



The Bulletins of the Society are sent free to members. Persons 
not members may obtain copies until the editions are exhasted on 
application to the Secretary. 



G? 



Spring Flowering Bulbs 

F. CUANEFlEl.l). 

The spring-flowering bulbs are a joy and a blessing. Flower beds 
and borders that would otherwise be bare and unsightly in the spring 
may, if filled with tulips, be a blaze of color for weeks. These with 
crocus, narcissus and others of the Holland bulbs, will give an abun- 
dance of bloom before the annuals and the summer flowering plants 
may be safely planted. In order to have this it is necessary to plant 
in the fall. October is the month of preparation for this brilliant 
spring show. But the planting may be done any time before the 
ground freezes. 

Crocus, tulips and similar bulbs are grown in Holland and are sent 
to us in late summer or early autumn and may then be had from flor- 
ists or seedsmen dry and dormant. The bulbs have in their thickened 
leaves a storehouse of food surrounding the perfectly formed embryo 
blossoms. We need only to plant them in rich well drained soil any 
time before the ground is frozen and cover with a mulch of heavy 
leaves. However, in order to meet with full success we must observe 
certain practical considerations. 

Preparation of Soil 

The beds where summer flowers have been growing should now 
be cleared of rubbish, the soil deeply spaded and well pulverized. 
Deep tillage is essential, as the roots of bulbous plants strike straight 
downward, branching but little. 

Drainage 

The soil must be light in texture and well-drained, as the bulbs 
will decay if water settles about them. If the soil is a heavy clay it 
will be well to raise the beds a few inches to insure perfect drainage. 

Manure 

II is not essential that the soil should be very rich. It is more 
important tnat it be light and porous. Use only thoroughly decayed 
manure. Fresh manure will cause the bulbs to decay. 

Planting 

Tulips, etc., are usually planted in "designs'" or masses of contrast- 
ing colors. As the bulbs of the different varieties are all much alike 
in appearance great care is necessary in handling to avoid mixing. 

3 



After the beds are prepared for planting and the design outlined the 
bulbs may all be set on the surface of the bed, placing all of one kind 
before commencing with another. 

Make the holes for planting with the fingers. Cover lightly and 
after planting compact firmly the whole surface of the bed by walking 
over it. Do not pvish the bulbs into the soil without first making 
holes, for this leaves them on a bed of hard soil and the straight down- 
ward growing roots will tend to push the bulbs to the surface. 

Winter Protection 

The bulbs here recommended for planting are all hardy in the 
sense of power to withstand cold, but all require a winter mulch to 
prevent alternate freezing and thawing. This is best put on after the 
ground is frozen and may consist of 3 to 6 inches of leaves or strawy 
manure. B ield mice are very fond of bulbs and are apt to harbor in 
the mulching if it is put on before heavy frosts. 

Spring Treatment 

Uncover early in the spring as soon as their first leaf buds appear. 
Do not fear late spring frosts, as tulips, etc., suffer but little or not at 
all from freezing if the growth is made in the open. There is greater 
danger of injury by frost to the spindling growth resulting from de- 
layed removal of the mulch. 

Summer Treatment 

After flowering the tops turn yellow and die and the bulbs may be 
allowed to remain in the ground- for a second and even a third year. 
Annuals and bedding plants may be planted without disturbing the 
bulbs. In case it is desired to remove them immediately after flower- 
ing dig carefully and "heel-in" or transplant closely in rows in the 
garden and leave until the tops die; then lift the bulbs, dry a day or 
two in the sun and store in a dry place until fall. 

Kinds to Plant 

TULIPS 

There are several classes (trade lists) of tulips, but the single 
early sorts are most satisfactory for outdoor culture. The following 
kinds are of like period of flowering and of the same height, two im- 
portant features in large beds: 

Red — Crimson King, Artus, Belle Alliance. 

Yellow — Chrysola, Yellow Prince. 

White — Pottebakker, Cottage Maid, La Reine. 

Variegated — Keiserskroon, 

4 



The Due Van Thol class is somewhat earlier than the above, but 
with smaller flowers. These may be had in scarlet, rose, yellow, white 
and crimson. 

The Parrot tulips have curiously shaped blossoms with fringed 
petals. These are odd but not adapted to massing. 

The Darwin, Bybloems and Bizarres are single late kinds, growing 
2 to 3 feet in height. More prized for cut flowers than for bedding. 
Very late and cannot be used where the beds are wanted for summer 
flowers. 

All so far named are single. Double flowered sorts may be had in 
all the shades of red as well as yellow, white and variegated. 

Plant tulip bulbs 3 to 5 inches deep (bottom of the bulb) and 4 to 
(! inclies apart. 

Narcissus 

Of the different classes of narcissus the daffodil or trumpet nar- 
cissus is most satisfactory for out-door planting. The Trumpet Major, 
single, and Von Sion, double, are two satisfactory kinds; both rich 
golden yellow. 

The Pheasant's Eye, white with yellow center, is also hardy. The 
Polyanth class, of which Paper White is a representative, is not hardy 
out-doors in Wisconsin. 

Hyacinths 

Hyacinths are much admired on account of their delicate colors 
and delightful fragrance. The single sorts are to be preferred for 
bedding, as the flower spikes are the more graceful and not as likely 
to droop as the heavier double ones. Various shades of blue, red and 
yellow may be selected from the lists of dealers. The following are 
•good: Robert Steiger, Grand Vainquer, Voltaire, Chas. Dickens and 
Czar Peter. 

Hyacinths will not thrive in wet, heavy soil. Light, sandy loam 
is best. The bed should be spaded to a depth of 18 inches or more 
and thoroughly pulverized. 

Plant 6 inches deep and 6 to 8 inches apart. 

Crocus 

The crocus is the earliest of the spring flowering bulbs to blossom 
and if planted in borders or grass plots may remain for years undis- 
turbed. 

Plant 2 to 3 inches deep. The plants require but little room and 
may be set 2 to 3 inches apart if desired. 



The kinds here mentioned are the ones commonly planted in beds 
and borders. A few others, as the Snowdrop, Scilla, etc., may be 
added if one desires a collection. 

5 



Plant A Few 

of each and brighten the home in the early spring. But little room 
is required and the culture is simple. 

Children 

love flowers. Let them make a tiny bulb garden. They may plant 
with their own hands, cover them for their long winter sleep and 
watch day by day in the spring the opening buds. This will be "Nature 
Study" at its best. 

Teachers 

often plan and plant flower gardens on the school grounds only to leave 
them at the beginning of their beauty as school closes. A bulb garden 
will be at its best at the time when we wish to draw the attention of 
the children to things "out-of-doors." 

Pot Culture or Forcing 

Many bulbs may be easily grown indoors and furnish a succession 
of bloom from Christmas until spring. Tulips do not force readily 
but all of the narcissus family, including the Chinese or sacred "lily," 
the miniature hyacinths and many others are easily grown. 

Soil 

A rich garden soil mixed with leaf mold and sand should be used. 
Do not use heavy clay soil nor fresh manure. Unless thoroughly de- 
cayed fine manure can be had it is better to use none at all. The 
compost should be well mixed and sifted before using. 

Potting 

Four and five-inch pots are commonly used. Fill these half full of 
soil, place the bulbs on this, one hyacinth or 3 to 4 tulips in a 4-inch 
pot, and fill to one-half inch of the top. Water thoroughly, place in a 
dark corner of the cellar and cover with earth or sand. This is for 
the purpose of developing root growth in advance of leaves. If left 
in the light the leaves would develop before roots were formed and 
exhaust the bulbs, leaving no energy for flower development. If the 
soil is kept moist by frequent sprinkling, in 5 or 6 weeks the pots will 
be well filled with roots. A few may now be brought to the light and 
the remainder retarded by removing to a cooler place. 

Light wooden boxes 4 to 5 inches deep may be used in place of pots. 

6 



Water Culture 

Hyacinths may be grown in water. Glasses for this purpose may 
be had of florists. Large-necked bottles will answer as well. Fill 
with water and place the bulb with the base resting on the water; 
place in a warm, dark closet, keep the bottle filled with pure water 
and when the roots are 3 to 4 inches in length bring to the light. 

The Chinese lily or narcissus may be grown wholly in the light. 
The large forked or branched bulbs may be placed in water in a shal- 
low dish in the window with a few small stones to support the roots. 
No further care is necessary beyond renewing the water supply as 
exhausted. 



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